There are many plants that don’t mind a bit of frost-peas, snow peas, lettuce, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, Napa cabbage, beets, parsnips, turnips, radishes, Swiss chard, kale, pansies, snap dragons and sweet peas. Further south, you can begin much earlier. Here, in New England, we can’t do a lot in the garden before April. Tender, warm-weather individuals I generally buy from garden centers as they usually have a decent selection if you get a good jump on the season. Tall plants should be put in the back (north) so they won’t shade the shorter ones. If you want to sow different vegetables in the same bed, think in terms of height. A star goes in if I’ve already manured it and it’s also a way to keep track of different varieties and where they have been put. I always draw it in the previous fall and put a check in each bed as I add lime. The map also allows me to keep track of other things.
Look in catalogues and gardening books for lists of the vegetables that are related, such as tomatoes, potatoes and peppers. I’m not interested in making it easy for either bugs or diseases to find their favorite plants from last year. I have my beds on a three year rotation, according to plant families. I draw the beds as best I can (not being an artist) and I have them numbered for confirmation. I have a spiral notebook in which I keep my plans from year to year. I stay away from chemicals and “quick fix” additives.īack to the map (how I do get off track sometimes!). This is in addition to either old manure or compost. I want the trace minerals that are an essential part of good health to be included in my vegetables so, at planting time, I sprinkle greensand, azomite powder and kelp meal on all of them. A nearby farm could have some old manure available at a reasonable price or check with your local garden store for bagged material. Most of my beds are about three feet wide (except for the ones up against the outside fence which I can only access from one side-these are preferably only two feet wide). Keep the beds relatively narrow you want to be able to comfortably reach into the middle while sitting or kneeling nearby. One of the easiest ways to plan a garden is to build raised beds far enough apart to mow in between them. Substantial discounts are available to garden designers and companies who purchase more than 10 subscriptions.Companion Planting Chart and Guide for Vegetable GardensĪfter deciding where the garden is going to go, it’s time to make a map. If you wish to purchase a gift certificate, or to use your gift certificate to subscribe, then please visit our Gift Certificates page. You can give a one or two year subscription as a present, sent to you by email for fast delivery.
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Having a well-planned garden and planting at the best time helps increase your success rate when gardening. Receive email reminders of when to sow and plant out the vegetables in your plans. Get access to your garden plans all year round so that you can make changes, print them and produce up-to-date planting lists.
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(If you have already started our 7 day Free Trial you will not lose days by subscribing now - subscription days are added to the remaining days on your account.) What's Included?Ī subscription to the online Garden Planner for PC or Mac gives you the following benefits: How Much Does It Cost? Subscription LengthĪnnual Automatically Recurring Subscription "You have made gardening EASY and FUN! Fail-safe crop rotations, plant quantities and supply (irrigation) lists specific to my plan, planting times for my location for indoor and outdoor starts, this site has it ALL!! I have introduced this site to every nursery in my area - success makes for happy Gardeners!!! Everyone wants to know my 's YOU! Thank you for this amazing tool!"
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